A Week In Puglia - Part I
To those who have requested travel tips on Puglia, thank you for inspiring me to write and for your patience as I combed over my notes and hundreds of photos. A month of travel translated into heaps of work, not only with Designs by Alina but with our three children, two of whom we just settled into their new lives back East. Because there is far more information than I envisioned, I have divided this post into two parts.
Part I
Geographic overview
Where to stay in Brindisi/Bari
Beaches and beach clubs
Where to see the famed trulli
A most fortunate encounter
Part II
Seven nights of dining in Puglia
Lecce: Where to stay and what to see
Ostuni must-sees and how to see them
OVERVIEW
To say that Puglia had been one of my bucket list destinations would be an understatement. I have been obsessed with trulli (plural for trullo), the dry-stone huts with quaint, corbeled roofs typical of the region, since I was a young architecture student many moons ago. But between visiting family in Europe and a desire to expose our children to other cultures around the world, carving out time to visit had long become an elusive dream.
Like Portugal and Croatia, Puglia—commonly referred to as the heel of Italy’s boot—has become increasingly popular. While not as central as Lazio, Umbria, or Tuscany, the allure lies in its breathtaking seaside, rich history, and endless olive groves—the most in all of Italy—and, of course, trulli-enchanted villages..
While visiting all of Puglia’s six provinces isn’t a must, less than a week isn’t enough time to truly experience the region. Therefore, after much thought, we split our stay between Brindisi—in the countryside near the Adriatic Sea—and Lecce, a beautiful Baroque city about an hour from the Ionian Sea, often called the “Maldives of Italy.”
BRINDISI & BARI
Puglia is rich with masserie (farmhouses), each with its own distinct charm. We chose Masseria Torre Rossa, the only hotel built into the historic “Lama” caves, dating back to the 18th century. Just fifteen minutes from the sea and surrounded by orchards and endless olive groves, it was the perfect base. Knowing we’d spend our days exploring beaches and villages, we opted for character over amenities like a pool or spa we’d never use. Our room, once a well, carried its history gracefully—water-jug light fixtures and a vintage washboard turned towel rack nodding to its roots.
Our days began in the garden with a breakfast of homemade pastries and yogurt topped with local fruit. Like most Italians, the Pugliese are warm and proud of their heritage. That pride showed when a staff member, noticing me scribbling notes, insisted on giving us a tour of the property’s newest suite—still under construction when we booked. It was spectacular, awaiting its very first guests.
If you’re traveling with children, Masseria Torre Coccaro is an ideal blend of indulgence and activity. We stopped in en route to the beach and found a property that caters to every age: cooking classes, golf, swimming, and wine or olive oil tastings for adults, alongside a spa, kids’ club, and a private beach club a few miles away (which we didn’t tour). Instead, we spent a day at their newly acquired Le Palme Beach Club, reviewed below.
BEACH CLUBS
As with many European beach destinations, clubs are a must in Puglia. On the Adriatic coast, both Lido Bambù and Lido Sabbiadoro were lovely, though I favored Bambù for its palapa-style decor, where even the car park was softened by olive trees—a Puglia signature. The property offers a bar, beach beds, and shaded canopies, with music drifting in later in the day. The result was an all-around memorable experience.
The next day, with temperatures soaring into the high nineties, we returned to the beach—this time to Lido Sabbiadoro (golden sand), which we thoroughly enjoyed. If you’re more food-driven like my husband than design-driven like me, Sabbiadoro will win you over. The highlight of our afternoon was the restaurant: a seasonal menu curated by Celebrity Chef Fulvio Pierangelini. The salt-crusted fish, pesce al sale, was superb—reminding me of the dishes I devoured as an adolescent in Venezuela. The décor was beautiful, though not as chic as Bambù. And the Italians? As ever, utterly charming.
On day three, we ventured out to Le Palme Beach Club, recently acquired by the same family that owns Masseria Torre Coccaro. Le Palme had a Miami vibe, though rainbow ribbons and plastic strip curtains in the restrooms tipped it into quirky—especially after touring the family’s elegant masseria. It was the only club with a trendy boutique, and like all the clubs we visited, it offered beach beds, canopies, and lounge areas throughout. For lunch, we ordered prawns and tuna tartare—both excellent.
People flock to Le Palme for its lively energy, like bees to honey. Perhaps that explains the festively kitsch décor. According to staff, it’s also one of the region’s top venues for weddings, parties, and private events. (Photos 5-9 below: courtesy of Le Palme Beach Club).
Honey, our 25th?
IONIAN COAST
On our way to Lecce, we stopped at Bahia Porto Cesareo on the Ionian Coast—far pricier than the others, with only its stunning setting to justify the cost. The décor was lovely, but it was the only club to add a surcharge for towels on top of an already steep fee. Most guests brought their own, creating a mismatched towel melee that distracted from the otherwise curated design. Worse, the music blared from noon onward. Don’t get me wrong—I enjoy a lively ambiance. Take Scorpios in Mykonos, where serenity eases into celebration at sunset. Bahia, by contrast, skipped straight to the chaos. We left after only three hours.
On the plus side, the staff were exceptional—thank you, Andrea and Mario—and I loved that each set of lounge chairs came with a proper table for two or four, perfect for a seaside lunch. The menu offered both traditional bites with local ingredients and heavily dressed sushi, which, if not watching one’s waistline, was quite good. The fee included a bottle of champagne, which we swapped for rosé.
And the sea? The “Maldives of Italy” indeed.
After four days of beaches, the moment finally came to discover the trulli I had dreamed of for years. We spotted the first ones on our way to Locorotondo (aptly meaning “round place”) for dinner. My husband even pulled a wild U-turn so we could capture them. It was worth it.
ALBEROBELLO
The next morning, we set out early for Alberobello (beautiful tree). Arriving before the crowds felt like stepping into the 14th century. A UNESCO World Heritage site since 1996, Alberobello boasts the largest concentration of trulli in Puglia. Dozens of conical roofs quickly became hundreds, leaving me as spellbound as I was the first time I saw Venice, Rome, Positano, or Lake Como. I had always known these rooftops were built without mortar, but never understood why. The answer, I later discovered, was as fascinating as the view before me—though no spoilers here.
UNMISTAKABLY FREE
While dining a few nights earlier, we met Sinead, a woman with a radiant smile, and her husband. They had just relocated to Puglia after years in Ireland, London, and New York, where they raised two children. I first noticed her embroidered silk slip-ons, then the tattoo above her ankle: a girl on a swing tethered to two birds. She told me it was her first and only tattoo, done just a month prior. “I have never felt as free as I do in Puglia,” she said, “so it felt right.”
Their warmth didn’t end with conversation. They invited us to their newly acquired trullo, where they welcomed us with cured meats, cheeses, olives, figs, and wine. Touring their home and rooftop sealed the connection. As Sinead noted—and I agreed—it felt as though we had known each other all our lives. That is pure Puglia magic.
PART II COMING SOON:
Seven nights of dining in Puglia
Three days in Lecce
How to tour Ostuni
Photos: property of Designs by Alina unless otherwise noted.